Машербрум (7821м) с юга. (альпклуб МАИ – все «на высоту» :))

с юга - это значит на Masherbrum SE ? Которая была только один раз пройдена ? или все-таки на главную?

codelancer, ваш вопрос меня озадачил :)
начал рыться в инете, смотрим Гималайский Индекс http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/hi/

Ascents Masherbrum 7821 m 25659 ft 35o38'24" 76o18'00"
Year Status Route Journal Year Volume Issue Page Diag Foto Ascent
1960 as SE Face/Couloir to col between twin peaks AAJ 1961 12 35 209 y 457
1983 as S Face (American route) AAJ 1984 26 58 296 2543
1985 as NW Ridge, N Face AAJ 1986 28 60 275 y 2220
1985 as NW Face AAJ 1986 28 60 277 y 2219

Таблица скопировалась плоховато, но смысл очень прост - человечество сумело залезть на К1 три раза. Причем про японские подвиги 1985 года есть некоторые сомнения. Неуспешных попыток было примерно в два раза больше. Другой инфы про Машербрум я не нашел. Если у вас есть - поделитесь.
Спасибо :)

Моя инфа следующая.
Кратко - на K1 Северную (Главная) - 4 восхождения, на Юго-какую-то - 1.
--
The massif has two high points. The main (North) summit is 7821m high while the SW summit which is 7806m high. Both have been climbed although not by many. The main summit was first climbed by Americans George Bell and Willi Unsoeld in 1960 while the SW summit was climbed by a Polish team in 1981. The latter ended in disaster when two of the three summiteers died during the descent.

Masherbrum is one of the hardest mountains in climb above 7500m and has only had four successful ascents to date. Masherbrum SE has only one ascent. Many attempts have given up in response to the high risk of objective dangers. Most attempts have encountered avalanches at close quarters however, with the exception of the first ascent of the first peak in 1981, none have ended in disaster.
--
хм, тут какие-то нестыковки что ли по тексту, то SW Summit, то SE Summit, но тем не менее ... Вершин у К1 две.

Вот есть кажется максимально полная статистика:

1938 British team SW Face An expedition led by James Waller reached 7602m before they were avalanched. Fortunately nobody was hurt but it was decided to abort the attempt.

1955 New Zealand team SE Face N Gave up due to deep snow

1957 British team SE Face N Came within 100m of the summit

1960 American Team SE Face Y First ascent William Unsoeld, George Bell, Nicholas Clinch and Jawed Akhter.

1976 Japanese team W Ridge/N Ridge N From a BC on the Mandu Glacier the 14 man Japanese team established camp I on the west ridge at 16000ft before the route was destroyed by an avalanche. Subsequently attempted the north ridge but only reached 18200ft before running out of time and gear.

1980 David Belden & Christine de Colombel SE Face N Reached a high point of 23625ft but descended due to bad weather and heavy snowfall after their tent had been avalanched in the night.

1981 Polish team SE Face Y First ascent of SW peak Summited by Zygmunt Andrjej Heinrich, Marek Malatynski and Przemyslaw Nowacki formed part of a larger team. BC was established on Serac Glacier from where they climbed to the col between the two Masherbrum summits. Here they bivouacked in a snow hole before continuing to the SW summit. During another high bivouack Nowacki and Malatynski died in the night having been exposed to strong cold winds throughout as well as the preceding day. Heinrich made it back to BC but was lucky to survive a 650-1000ft fall at 24600 ft.

1981 Volker Stallbohm & Abdul Karim SE Face N Reached the col between Masherbrum and Yermanendu Kangri but could not continue to the summit due to bad weather and lack of food.

1981 American team N Face & W Ridge N From a BC on the Mandu Glacier they reached a high point at 5486m where they had a close encounter with serac fall and promptly decided the route was too dangerous to continue.

1981 British team N SW peak attempt Reached 23400ft at which point bad weather broke out and they were unable to go any higher.

1983 Japanese Team Y Second ascent Masahiro Nomura and Takeyasu Minamiura summite via the same route as the American's in 1960.

1985 Japanese Team N Ridge Y Third ascent, new route Siege-style over a period of a month and a half fixing much rope. Frequent collapse of the upper glacier force them to traverse right to the NW ridge. Placed high camps at 5600m (I), 6100m (II), 6300m (III), 7200m (IV). Above camp IV the team were forced to traverse further right onto the NW Face due to rotten rock on the NW Ridge. Eventually they reached the col between the main and SW summits. All ten members reached the summit.

1985 Austrian team NW Face Y Fourth ascent A 6 man team that also sieged the mountain but fixed only 600m. Two summit attempts were made from camp III at 6300m. The first was abandoned at 7000m at which point 2 members left the expedition due to the enormous danger of falling rock and ice. On the second attempt one member gave up while the other three bivouacked at 7200m before continuing to the summit. The summiteers were Andreas Orgler, Michael Larcher and Robert Renzler. They reached the summit the day after the Japanese.

1985 British team E Ridge from North N From the Yermanendu Glacier to the north they attempted the east ridge, climbing from the Masherbrum La to the summit via several subsidiary summits including Yermanandu Kangri (7821m). They was quickly thwarted due to poor snow conditions.

1996 Russian-American team SE Face N The six man expedition attempted the peak in semi-alpine style. They reached a high point of 7200m at which point they decided the avalanche risk was too great to continue.

1996 American team E-SE Ridge N Four man team led by Peter Cole reached a high point of 6050m. At camp II (5650m) they were avalanched from both sides. They were uninjured but had to wait three days for snow conditions to improve before descending to BC.

2000 N Details to follow

2003 Steve House, Marko Prezelj & Matic Jost N ridge N Initially set a BC up in the Mandu Glacier however it was impossible to gain the ridge as the Austrians had done in 1985. BC was moved to the Yermanendu Glacier via a small pass. The attempt on Masherbrum was soon abandoned due to persistently poor snow conditions that lead to a number of slab avalanches.

2006 Russian Team NW Face N Objective danger of the route repeatedly increased after 4-day snowfalls meant the team went no higher than ABC (5800m)

Юра, удачи вам гигантской! Горища- просто сказка. Ждем сообщений
:-)))))

Юра, желаю удачи!

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В.Богданов

Юрась! Отец уже встает, хоть и с трудом, но рвется на работу. Лечащая врач у него Наира, подруга Оли Шапиро, она его не выпустит. Все волнуемся за тебя, главное, возвращайтесь.